A Fire Evacuation
Our helicopter arrived at the launch pad for our initial pickup - we can see smoke haze in the background
Awakened by the smell of ash, my groggy dreams of cleaning a fireplace moved on to the day’s reality. Although safe in our room amidst the Canadian Rockies, the air was filled with smoke.
Arriving at the iconic lodge via helicopter less than 24 hours earlier, we went to bed with a glorious view of the Bugaboo Mountains. By morning, smoke billowed, and we could see nothing past our window. Our trip was meant to be a ten-day adventure, ending with this bucket-list excursion - heli-hiking to glaciers and mountain ranges typically only enjoyed from afar.
My husband, Garrett, is the ultimate travel planner. I was all in when he asked if I was game for an extended vacation to the Canadian Rockies. He carefully planned our hikes and lodging, taking us through Banff and Lake Louise. Our last three days included a capstone heli-hiking trip into Bugaboo National Park.
Garrett had heli-skied before, and with fewer snowy days to fulfill the trip minimums, he had collected credits for future trips. Rather than betting again on the fickleness of snow, he took the safer route and booked a summer trip in the mountains. We assumed heli-hiking was a weather no-brainer. If conditions didn’t cooperate with the helicopter, we could wear rain jackets and hike around the lodge. There seemed to be more options than obstacles in the summer months.
Or so we thought.
Our Banff and Lake Louise legs for our trip were nearly perfect. We put in our hiking miles and avoided the hoards of tourists by choosing challenging hikes that only a minority could take on. After climbing 11,000 feet of elevation and 40 miles traversing the Canadian Rockies, we were ready for the crown jewel and finale of our hiking trip—three days of heli-hiking.
Our Banff and Lake Louise hikes
Heli-hiking is just as it sounds, involving two main elements: a helicopter and hiking. Like most trips planned by my resourceful husband, I paid little attention to the carefully curated details in advance. I was filled in after we arrived at the helipad at our designated time. Waiting with us was the dynamic grandma-and-grandson duo of Donna and Asher.
Donna shared with us how her family was introduced to heli-hiking by her father, a seasoned adventurer. As he became older and less agile, he found the trip by helicopter an optimal means to climb to the top of a mountain. It allowed him to take in the marvelous glaciers and stunning views. Trips that included his family followed. Donna has continued the tradition of bringing her children and grandchildren on annual trips.
I soon learned that the helicopter was not only crucial to getting us to the remote lodge but would also transport us to our hikes, all on non-marked trails and always accompanied by a seasoned guide. As our fellow lodgers arrived by car and bus, I learned that the heli-hiking company ran 3-day excursions back-to-back through the summer months. Our group would remain together for our stay and be matched into smaller hiking groups based on the desire for hike difficulty and length.
Waiting for our helicopter. It's arrival. And our enthusiasm.
Our first lesson was about the safety features crucial to being a passenger on a helicopter and the intricacies of the massive flying machine. Boarded for the flight, we were exposed to stunning views. The aircraft soared over the Bugaboo National Park, carefully landing us on the pad adjacent to our lodge. Upon descent, I quickly realized that our accommodations were high-end, better than glamping.
The lodge staff was well-acclimated to their designated roles. Our entrance felt like a welcome onto Fantasy Island (only lacking the shouts of “da plane…da plane”). We took in each other's ages, ethnic backgrounds, and personalities as we were welcomed with a roll call and orientation of the facility.
Asher & Donna on the helicopter as we fly in to our lodge
The first order of business was to await the delivery of our bags via the lodge van. A narrow, winding access road up the mountain is the only way to the lodge outside a helicopter. Room assignments were given (with no locks on the doors). Our next orientation was in the equipment room, where gear was explained and distributed. We were lined up for a weigh-in and took turns standing on a veterinary-grade scale. There was no honor system, as exact weights were necessary to determine group composition within helicopter weight limits.
Twelve-year-old Asher was the only one looking forward to his weigh-in. Per his grandma, he had been consuming large quantities of food to ensure he would make the minimum weight limit for the via ferrata. His cousin had done this guided climb involving cables, rungs, and ladders the year before. Asher wanted to add this adventure to his trip highlight reel.
Next, we privately discussed our needs and wants regarding daily hikes with the lodge coordinator. Are you fast? Do you want to take your time? Do you prefer to avoid children? Do you have preferences regarding other guests you would like to be with or avoid?
The lodge chef served a gourmet lunch, catering to all vegan and meat food preferences and restrictions. We were instructed to unpack our newly arrived bags and get comfortable in our rooms before our first hike. A designated time was given to meet back in the lobby to find the posted sign with the assigned groups’ numbers and helicopter departure time.
As we awaited the hanging of the clipboard, it felt nothing short of waiting to see which childhood team you were chosen for. Did Garrett and my weight and age contribute to a lower-level group? Would we be with the old people? Were we the old people? I secretly wondered if anyone had requested not to be grouped with us. Or maybe we gave off vibes of the fun people and were requested?
Garrett and I were placed in Group #2 of six total groups. We interpreted this as being assessed on the higher side of athleticism. Later, someone from Group #4 shared that their guide told them they were evaluated in spot #2 for ability. The agile group of #1 was clearly in that spot for a reason based on their age, enthusiasm, and physique. It was also evident that Group #6 was ranked least athletic as it included only children and elderly hikers. The four groups in the middle were all led to believe we were in the second spot, which was good psychology and a participation medal.
Jumping on the helicopter with our small group of five plus our guide was exhilarating. Our group consisted of a woman from New York older than Garrett and me. She was a yoga instructor and very fit. Her husband preferred a casual hike and joined Group #6. This trip allowed them to hike separately at their ability by day while enjoying nights at the lodge together.
The other couple were young parents from the East Coast. The husband was a serious outdoorsman, with Mt. Everest climbs in his past. His wife was not a thrill-seeker, reminding him they had two young daughters who needed them at home. Not wanting to separate, they chose our ‘middle-of-the-road’ group.
Our assigned group on our first and only heli-hike
It was gorgeous, and our guide was skilled in the terrain and full of mountain stories. This hike dipped our toes as part of an overall assessment of our physical abilities and matching personalities. The guide later asked us individually if we were good for the group or if we wanted to change. We all felt aligned and chose to stay together. We looked forward to more strenuous hikes in the coming days that would pay off with the stunning views we saw online.
Day 3 provided the option of climbing the via ferrata. After being coaxed by our guide and others to join this adventure, I decided to go outside my comfort zone and take on this challenge. Everyone was excited for what lay ahead for us.
Dinner was full of fabulous food, spectacular views, and a constant flow of wine. The conversation was enthusiastic about our upcoming days on the mountain.
Spectacular views and food from our first night at the lodge, which became our last
With gear laid out and energy bars contemplated and counted, Garrett and I went to bed with visions of a great adventure awaiting us in the morning. Instead, we woke up to billows of smoke. The beautiful sunset views from the night before were gone. There was no visibility past our outside deck.
Groups gathered in the dining room for a briefing on smokey conditions. We were told to shut all windows and doors to the outside, and face masks were provided. The town of Golden, next to the helipad, had a wildfire that had gone uncontrolled overnight. This was one of many fires that were raging nearby. The biggest fire battle was in the city of Jasper. There was a moment of silence as our lodge staff mourned for the devasted town. Homes were lost, and co-workers were left with no place to go.
We were reunited later after the staff had time to assess the situation, and the guests were diverted to on-site activities (gym workouts, a slideshow history of the lodge, and a rock-climbing wall). This time, the message was clear: We were evacuating. There would be a window of visibility, and we needed to capitalize on the opportunity to get us to safety. With Banff and Lake Louise filling up to accommodate those evacuated from the devastated areas, we also needed to make room for those battling the fires. Although we weren’t in imminent danger, evacuation allowed us to be part of the solution, not the problem.
Less than 24 hours after arriving, we packed our bags to leave. Thankful for seeing sunshine as we boarded the helicopter, we bid Bugaboos goodbye. There would be no epic hike or via ferrata on this trip. Just as we arrived, Donna and Asher were with us on our flight back. Although bummed on our early departure, Asher shared that he did get the phone number of a thirteen-year-old fellow hiker, Emma. He was also allowed co-pilot on our flight back.
Indoor activities kept us busy in the morning until our final helicopter trip back to the helipad
After saying goodbye to our new friends and receiving promises from the lodge that emails would be forthcoming on refund options, Garrett and I took off for Calgary. We were able to move up our flight and secure earlier nights for our final hotel stay. With hazy skies behind us, we followed the hoards of cars headed to the city, far away from the fire battles in our rearview mirror.
Living in Colorado, we understand this battle with nature. Evacuating the area leaves room for the professionals and locals to manage the fire and after-effects. We were just taking up space.
Arriving in Calgary and acclimating ourselves to concrete, traffic, and commercial extremities, we decided to make the best of it. Garrett curated a walking brewery tour for us. Enjoying the downtown streets while the opening ceremonies of the Olympics played on the big screens, we experienced the culture and pride of another country. The beer and the people were fantastic.
We later learned that although it took days, Golden finally controlled their fire. Jasper did not have as good an outcome, losing 2/3 of the standing city structures to the fire. There was no doubt that our evacuation was necessary.
We found ways to entertain ourselves in Calgary. When life gives you lemons...
Nature is a fickle beast. As much as we love the beauty of the mountains, we also understand the risks that come with nature. Whether it is fire mitigation as homeowners or evacuation as visitors, we need to do our part to protect the land and people.
As for our refund, we got word that we could rebook and give it another shot, skiing or hiking, within a year. We opted to pass. After three attempts and nature not cooperating, perhaps it is time for us to heed her message. Although we will likely use a helicopter to reach our desired destinations in the future, we will rely on our legs for now. When our legs can no longer climb, we’ll try the helicopter again. And then I will know exactly what to expect.
