A Fire Evacuation
Our helicopter arrived at the launch pad for our initial pickup - we can see smoke haze in the background
I was wakened by the smell of ash. My groggy dream of cleaning a fireplace turned into the day’s reality. Although we were safe in our room, the air was filled with smoke.
We had arrived at the iconic Bugaboo Mountains lodge via helicopter less than 24 hours earlier. At sunset, we took in the glorious mountain views. By morning, we could see nothing past the billowing haze.
This bucket-list excursion — heli-hiking to glaciers and atop mountain ranges was to end our ten-day Canada adventure.
My husband, Garrett, is our travel planner. When he asked if I was up for an extended vacation to the Canadian Rockies, I quickly agreed. He carefully planned our hikes and lodging, first taking us through Banff and Lake Louise. Our last three days included this capstone heli-hiking trip into Bugaboo National Park.
Garrett had gone on heli-skiing trips before but had collected credits for future trips with too little snow to fulfill the minimums. Rather than betting again on the fickleness of snowfall, he took the safer route and booked a summer trip.
We assumed heli-hiking was a weather no-brainer. If conditions didn’t cooperate with the helicopter, we could wear rain jackets and hike around the lodge. In the summer months, there seemed to be more options than obstacles.
Or so we thought.
The Banff and Lake Louise legs of our trip were nearly perfect. We avoided the hoards of tourists by choosing challenging hikes, climbing a total of 11,000 feet of elevation while traversing 40 miles of the Canadian Rockies. We were ready for our heli-hiking finale.
Our Banff and Lake Louise hikes
Awaiting pickup at the helipad, we met Donna and Asher, a dynamic grandma-and-grandson duo. Donna’s family was introduced to heli-hiking by her father, a seasoned adventurer. As he aged, he found a helicopter a better means of climbing a mountain. It allowed him to take in the stunning views as his athleticism faded. Donna continued the tradition with her young grandson.
The helicopter was our only means to the remote lodge. While there, this same helicopter would transport us to our daily hikes on non-marked trails with a seasoned guide. Our three-day excursion included the same tourists, who would later be sorted into smaller groups.
After a lesson on the massive flying machine's safety features, we boarded the flight, enjoying stunning views. Landing on the pad adjacent to our lodge, I quickly realized that our accommodations were fancier than glamping.
Waiting for our helicopter. It's arrival. And our enthusiasm.
After a lesson on the massive flying machine's safety features, we boarded the flight, enjoying stunning views. Landing on the pad adjacent to our lodge, I quickly realized that our accommodations were fancier than glamping.
Our entrance felt like a welcome onto Fantasy Island (only lacking the shouts of “da plane…da plane”). The staff took on their designated roles as the guests took each other in. We were given room assignments to discover luxurious accommodations with no door locks.
Our orientation began in the equipment room. Various gear needed for our daily hikes was distributed. Individual weigh-ins followed on a veterinary-grade scale. With no honor system, helicopter weight limits were ensured to be followed.
Twelve-year-old Asher was the only one looking forward to his time on the scale. He wanted to reach the minimum weight required for the Skyladder Via Ferrata, a guided climb involving cables, rungs, and ladders, highlighting his trip.
Asher & Donna on the helicopter as we fly in to our lodge
After the weigh-in, we met privately with the lodge coordinator to discuss private hiking wants and needs. Do you hike for endurance or to enjoy the scenery? Do you want to avoid kids? Do you have preferences regarding others in your group?
After a gourmet lunch, we were instructed to prepare for our first hike. A clipboard with small group assignments and helicopter departure times would be hung in the lobby.
As we awaited the groupings, I had flashbacks to childhood team tryouts. Did they deem me non-athletic? Would we be with the old people? Had anyone requested not to be grouped with me?
Garrett and I were ultimately placed in Group #2 of six total groups. As it was physically apparent who would make Group #1, we interpreted this placement as being assessed on the higher side of athleticism. Later, we learned that all the groups were led to believe they were in the second spot. Although mildly misguided, it was good psychology to keep everyone happy.
Our assigned group on our first and only heli-hike
Jumping on the helicopter with our small group of five plus our guide was exhilarating. Our group included Mary from New York, a fit yoga instructor who preferred a challenging hike. Her husband preferred a more casual hike and joined Group #6. The trip format allowed them to hike separately while enjoying nights together at the lodge.
The other couple in our group were young parents from the East Coast. The husband was a serious adventurer, having climbed Mt. Everest. His wife was not a thrill-seeker, reminding him they had two young daughters who needed them at home. Choosing not to separate, they were placed in our group.
Hiking through the glaciers was gorgeous. Our guide was skilled in the terrain and full of stories. This initial hike was more of an assessment of our physical abilities than a challenge.
We were told of more strenuous hikes in the coming days. I announced that I would join Asher on the Via Ferrata. After coaxing from our guide, I decided to go outside my comfort zone and sign up.
Dinner was full of fabulous food, spectacular views, and a constant flow of wine. The conversation was enthusiastic about our upcoming days on the mountain.
Spectacular views and food from our first night at the lodge, which became our last
With gear laid out and energy bars counted, Garrett and I went to bed with visions of a great adventure ahead. Instead, we woke up to the smoke. There was no visibility past our deck.
Groups gathered in the dining room for a briefing on the smokey conditions. Windows were closed, and face masks were provided. A wildfire had gone out of control overnight in the nearby town of Golden, but this was only one of many fires raging nearby.
The biggest fire battle was in the city of Jasper. There was a moment of silence as our lodge staff mourned for the devasted town. Homes were lost, and many of their friends were left stranded.
As staff assessed the situation, guests were diverted to on-site activities — gym workouts, ping pong, a slideshow history of the lodge, or a rock-climbing wall. Then, a decision was made: We were evacuating.
With a small window of visibility, we needed to capitalize on the opportunity to get to safety and make room for those battling the fires. Although we weren’t in imminent danger, evacuation allowed us to be part of the solution, not the problem.
In less than 24 hours, we were heading back to the helipad. Thankful for the sunshine as we boarded the helicopter, we bid Bugaboos goodbye. This trip would not include an epic hike or Via Ferrata.
Indoor activities kept us busy in the morning until our final helicopter trip back to the helipad
Just as we arrived, Donna and Asher were with us on our helicopter flight back. Although bummed on our early departure, Asher was thrilled to be asked to take the co-pilot seat.
The lodge staff bid us goodbye, promising to provide trip refund details later. Garrett and I were able to move up our flight and secure a hotel in Calgary. Driving from the mountains, we distanced ourselves from the fire battles in our rearview mirror.
With a home in Colorado, we understand this battle with nature. Evacuating provides room for professionals to manage the fire and its aftereffects. The strategy is to get us out of harm’s way while simply getting us out of the way.
Arriving in Calgary and acclimating to concrete and traffic, we decided to make the best of it. Garrett curated a walking brewery tour for us. Enjoying the downtown streets while the opening ceremonies of the Olympics played on the big screens, we experienced the culture and pride of another country.
Although the end of our trip differed from what we envisioned, the beer and the people of Calgary were fantastic.
We found ways to entertain ourselves in Calgary. When life gives you lemons...
We later learned that the fire in Golden took days to control. Jasper's outcome was terrible, losing two-thirds of its structures to the fire. There were no second thoughts about the necessity of our evacuation.
Nature is a fickle beast. As much as we love the beauty of the mountains, we also understand the risks. Whether fire mitigation as homeowners or evacuation as visitors, we need to do our part in protecting land and people.
As for our canceled trip, we were given the option to rebook within a year or get a full refund. We chose the refund.
Heeding nature’s message, we will rely on our legs to reach our destinations, at least for now. When we can no longer make the climb, we’ll take helicopter assistance.
And we will know exactly what to expect.
